Fog light Mod for 2012-13 cr-v


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Fog light Mod for 2012-13 CR-V

Many people have inquired as to a way to modify the fog lights to come on with the hi-beams in order to provide lighting of the road close up as well as at a distance. Since Honda does not provide a Service Manual for 2012 and newer CR-V, no wiring schematics are currently available.

This tutorial will explain how to wire the lighting circuit to provide four lighting options:

The first three options automatically occur when the Hi-Beams are turned on.

  1. Hi-Beams with Fog Lights

  2. Hi-Beams with Fog Lights and Low Beams

  3. Hi-Beams with Low Beams (since some don’t have Fog Lights)

  4. Fog lights operate as normal even with Hi-Beams on or Low Beams off. (An option for those who have pulled the DRL fuse because of an HID conversion)

What it does:

This mod bypasses the MICU that controls the lighting system without compromising the MICU and its normal operation of anything else, including the time delay programming for the lights auto shut-off feature or DRL (Daytime Running Lights) function.

This circuit mod provides a ground for the lighting relays to operate. A relay is required for proper operation in order to keep the MICU input ground and output ground circuits separate. (Trust me on this)

Tools and Parts you will or may need:

Volt meter, screw driver, needle nose pliers, crimper, wire cutter, stiff wire, long 1/8”drill bit and flashlight.

18 gauge stranded wire, 18 gauge wire taps, spade connectors (female), electrical tape, wire ties, DPDT relay (Radio Shack 275-0218) and fuse taps (Radio Shack 270-1204)

I should add that you should at least have a basic understanding of low voltage electricity and be able to read a schematic. Please read all of the instructions before starting.



Now you can get started

Remove the fuse box cover located under the hood on the driver side.

Remove the Fog Light relay as shown in the picture below. The terminal on the left or towards the front of the car should have constant +12 volts. This can be tested with a meter or a test light. Remember that we don’t want to use this terminal. (I’m pretty sure that Honda is consistent with terminal placement in the fuse box but this test is to make certain) Reshape and apply a fuse tap to relay terminal opposite the one that tested positive. Be certain to observe the orientation of the relay and the tap used in the picture. Press relay firmly back into place.



Make sure you have your radio code handy so you can reactivate your radio when you are done.

Disconnect the battery.

Using a stiff thin gauge wire, poke an opening on the left side of the wiring harness boot that is attached to the firewall above the accelerator, being careful to stay clear of the wire harness . I found it best to do this from inside the vehicle. (I used .062 stainless welding wire but clothes hanger wire will work also)

Secure the 18 gauge wire to the end of the wire that you used to poked through the wire harness boot and slowly draw the wire back through the wire harness boot, you will meet with some resistance when you get to the point of where the attached wires go through the boot. Be patient and apply even pressure. Pull about 3 feet of wire into the cab.



Adjust the steering wheel to the full down and out position. Turn the steering wheel to the left 90°. This will allow access for removing the top half of the steering console. With a cloth covered flat blade screw driver, push in on the area shown to the left of the steering wheel. After the housing separates on that side, rotate the steering wheel back to the right 180° and perform the same procedure on the right side. Separate the top housing from the bottom.



Remove the wiring connector from the back side lighting control stalk.

Remove about 2 inches of tape and wire protection away from the connector, being careful not to damage the wires.

Route the wire that you pulled through the firewall up the right side of the steering column.

G
For option 4, tap the purple wire instead of the blue wire.
ently pull the blue wire located next to the red wire away from the rest and attach wire tap access opening away from the connector. Insert tap wire and apply pressure with pliers on the tap knife to engage the wires. Snap wire tap retaining cover into place. Re-insert the connector back into lighting control stalk.




Secure tap wire leading to the firewall leaving enough slack in the wire as to not interfere with the tilt/telescopic feature. Pull excessive slack through the firewall from the engine side.

Re-install steering console cover and place steering wheel back to normal driving position.

The hard part is over!

The remaining work will take place in the engine compartment.

Remove the lighting relay control unit located in the fuse box by depressing tabs at both ends and lifting up. It may fight you a bit but be patient, it will come out.



Once removed, disconnect both connectors from the bottom.

Move wires from these two connectors out of the way to expose the bottom of the fuse box. Drill a 1/8” hole in the bottom using a long drill bit.

Route the wire you pulled through the fire wall, along the backside of the brake reservoir and under the fuse box through the hole you just drilled. Pull wire straight up through the opening of the removed relay control box and cut the wire leaving about 6”of extra wire.

Strip wire end, crimp on female spade terminal and attach to coil side of relay.

Remove larger green relay located at the front of the fuse box. Reshape and apply a fuse tap to relay terminal as shown below. Re-install this relay.

This connection is your IGNITION SOURCE



Cut 10”of 18 gauge wire and crimp larger female spade connector to one end. Attach to tap on large relay. Route other end of wire down though opening in fuse box and out through the opening of the removed relay control box. (This makes for a cleaner install)

Strip wire end, crimp on female spade terminal and attach to other coil side of relay.

Crimp ring connector to 12” of 18 gauge wire. Remove 10mm bolt securing fuse box support and attach ring connector. Re-install bolt. Route other end of wire through the hole in the bottom of the fuse box. Strip end and attach two spade connectors. Attach both spade connectors to the common contacts of the relay.



Attach female spade connector to 10”of 18 gauge wire and connect to fog light relay tap connector installed earlier. Route wire down through small opening adjacent to relay and up through the opening for the lighting relay control unit. Strip this end and install spade connector for relay. Attach to one normally open contact connector. When relay is energized, this will cause the fog lights to turn on.



Attach wire tap and 6”of 18 gauge wire to blue wire located on small connector for lighting relay control unit. (This connection will activate low beams when hi-beams are turned on) Strip other end and attach female spade connector, install on the other normally open contact on relay.



After connections are made at the relay, insulate with electrical tape and place in fuse box as shown. Place excess wire below opening of lighting relay control unit. Re-install connectors to lighting relay control unit and install control unit back into opening.


Pictured is an Omron DPDT relay but the Radio

Shack relay will work the same


Reconnect battery and turn the ignition to the “ON” position.

Turn on Hi-Beams, additional lighting should come on for options 1, 2 or 3.

For option 4, fog lights should turn on or off for any lighting position.

Option #1 DPDT Relay



Option #2 DPDT Relay



Option #3 DPDT Relay




Option #4 DPDT Relay


I used the DPDT relay (Radio Shack 275-0218) for all options since it is readily available.

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